Keep It Middlebrow, Starbucks
Posted on : 13-02-2010 | By : admin | In : business
In the latest Reason magazine, Greg Beato argues that Starbucks (SBUX) is, at its heart, radical. In fact, it’s “still the most radical thing to hit the coffeehouse universe in the last 50 years.”
What it needs to do, Beato says, is to stop trying to be “radical,” and just be … radical. Because like “Seattle’s other great cultural export from the early 1990s, Nirvana, Starbucks has always been most vital, most interesting, most revolutionary when at its most commercial.”
This isn’t just Reason magazine gleefully commodifying its dissent—as it often does by holding up capitalism as some kind of subversive idea to piss off liberals. Well, it’s a little bit that, but it’s also a real argument. And it’s partly right.
Over the years, Starbucks has repeatedly tried to prove its indie cred or to position itself as more highbrow than it really is. But those efforts are always shallow, whether they consist of trying to be a ‘zine publisher or trying to be a crunchy purveyor of “small batch coffees sourced from individually owned farms,” as it’s doing now with its unbranded, ersatz-independent coffeehouses.
But the company succeeds best, as Beato notes, when it is at its most middlebrow. That’s its strength. But when it reaches for “authenticity,” rather than just being authentically itself, it fails. None of the chain’s strained efforts can “match the truly radical act of installing espresso machines in bank lobbies,” Beato writes.
Nor can they match Starbucks’ initial bit of radicalism: avoiding the downscale hipster neighborhoods where coffeehouses were proliferating in the early ’90s (thanks, in part, to the existence of Starbucks itself) in favor of middle class neighborhoods, downtowns, and suburban areas. Back then, founder Howard Schultz “made sure to put his stores in the direct path of lawyers and doctors, artists on trust funds and writers with day jobs as junk bond traders.” And he stayed away from “fringe places like, for instance, Chicago’s neobohemian Wicker Park.”
He’s right that this was radical. But he’s wrong that it still is. I happened to live in Wicker Park in the early ’90s, and I was glad there was no Starbucks there. Or rather, I would have been glad if it had ever crossed my mind that it was possible. I had plenty of access to great coffee at funky (if not truly radical) places like Urbis Orbis, which hosted slam poetry events and folk-music concerts and whatnot. It’s gone now.
So, too, is Wicker Park Dogs, a tiny purveyor of cheap, delicious, greasy burgers and giant sacks of fries that was housed right in the vortex of Wicker Park’s hipness, the corner of Damen, North, and Milwaukee. There’s a Bank of America (BAC) there now. Not so radical. And across street is … a Starbucks. Neighbors include a high-end women’s haberdashery that was once home to Sophie’s Busy Bee–a funky Polish diner that had been there for at least three different demographic revolutions in the neighborhood, from the Poles through the Hispanics through the arty, cash-poor hipsters. Once the yuppies had taken over in the mid- to late-’90s, there was little demand for Sophie Madej’s pierogi or pork knuckles, and she closed up shop.
All these places were far more “authentic” than Starbucks is now, whether in its original incarnation or in its fake-indie one.
Starbucks’ rise was indeed radical. But it won the revolution, which necessarily makes it the Establishment. There’s nothing inherently wrong with that (though the chain’s contribution to the spreading monoculture is a little depressing). Beato’s right that Starbucks should keep doing what it does best. But we can’t call it “radical” anymore.
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